Posted on Wed, Feb 22, 2012 @ 10:00 AM
Too Warm or Too Cold....
In many homes, there are rooms that are always warmer or colder than
others. Becauses heat rises, upper floors are often too warm and basements are too cold. Rooms that receive long hours of sunlight are difficult to moderate as are rooms with vaulted ceilings. If a fireplace is used in a room near where the thermostat is mounted, the rest of the house will become cold as well.
System Zoning
Solving the "too warm or too cold" problem is actually fairly easy. It is through the use of system zoning that consistent temperature throughout your home can be achieved. Zoning is simply the process of dividing your home into different "zones" and then heating or cooling them as needed. This is the ideal way to eliminate hot and cold areas and also saves energy by only heating or cooling the areas of your home that you are using. According to the US Environmental Protection Agency, heating and cooling a home typically account for as much as 40% of total utility costs so system zoning makes a lot of sense. Zoning does not increase the efficiency of your furnace, heat pump or air conditioner but rather increases the overall efficiency of your system by directing heating or cooling to where you need it.
How Zoning Works
Your home is basically divided in to three or four "zones" that have similar comfort needs. A system of electronic thermostats and electronically controlled dampers automatically adjusts the temperature in each of these zones. Typically the existing ductwork in your home will be fine as it is, but your HVAC professional can confirm this. Installing a zoning system is not a do-it-yourself project for most homeowners so the best course of action is to contact a qualified HVAC company and discuss your heating and cooling issues with them. They will be able to put together a zoning system that will keep your family more comfortable and save you money each and every month.
Photo credit: Flikr

Posted on Wed, Feb 15, 2012 @ 08:00 AM
No matter how much we clean, dust is going to exist in our homes. This 
can be especially problematic for people with allergies or respiratory problems. Vacuuming and dusting your furniture are great ways to reduce surface dust in your home, but dust exists in many other places that you may not be aware of.
If you notice dust in your house, but can't figure out where it's coming from or how to reduce it, here are some things you need to know:
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Duct Cleaning: Duct cleaning generally refers to the cleaning of various heating and cooling system components of forced air systems, including the supply and return air ducts and registers, grilles and diffusers, heat exchangers, and heating and cooling coils. By cleaning your HVAC system, you can remove allergens like dust and mold from the duct work as well as residue from such things as cigarette smoke. Duct cleaning is especially important to have done if anyone in your home suffers from allergies or respiratory problems.
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Air Purification: Through technology known as 'bipolar ionization,' AtmosAir has a product that removes airborne pollutants such as mold bacteria, pollen, chemicals, and odor causing organic compounds from the air in your home.
Dust will never completely disappear, but by following some of the above mentioned steps, your home will be as close to dust free as possible.

Posted on Wed, Feb 08, 2012 @ 08:30 AM
It is good practice to have your heat pump or furnace inspected 
annually (typically before the heating season) by a qualified technician to ensure the air handler is working properly and safely. But, there are also several things a homeowner can do to keep the heating system running at its best and to keep your home warm.
Here are some easy Do-it-Yourself tips to keep your heating system running efficiently:
1. Add insulation in the attic: If the attic insulation is level with or below the attic floor joists, you could use more insulation. The recommened insulation level is 12-15 inches in depth. Insulation is measured in R-value. Higher R-values mean more insulating power. More insulation means your heating system won't work as hard.
2. Seal Leaks: Many air leaks are hidden in attics, basements and crawlspaces. They are harder to find than leaks around windows and doors, but are likely the source of quite a bit of heat loss. Seal these leaks with caulk or spray foam. You will see a significant improvement in your home's comfort once you do this as much more of the heat your system is producing will stay in the house now.
3. Change the filter: This is the easiest and least expensive way to improve your heating system's efficiency. During heating season, make sure you check the filter at least once a month and change as necessary.
4. Sealing Ductwork: Ducts are used to distribute air throughout the house. In the typical house, as much as 20% of the air that moves through the duct system is lost due to leaks and poorly sealed connections. Some ducts are hidden behind walls and between floors and would be difficult to repair, but exposed ducts can be sealed without a lot of difficulty using duct sealant (also known as duct mastic).
5. Move the furniture: Take a look to see where your heat registers are. Registers might be behind the couch, bed, or blocked by long drapes. The warm air your furnace is producing won't reach the room efficiently if it's being impeded. Simply rearrange anything that is preventing the air to move through the room.
A home energy audit (also known as a home energy assessment) done by a qualified technician is still the best way to find all the areas of energy inefficiency in your home. The audit/assessment will include a blower door test and thermographic scan which will pinpoint the locations of air leakage. This information can then be used to formulate a plan to correct problem areas.
Photo credit: Flickr
Posted on Wed, Feb 01, 2012 @ 09:00 AM
Are there rooms in your house that you avoid spending time in during the winter because they are cold and drafty? If you do, and don't want to invest a lot of money in a long-term solution to the problem, here are some simple, Do-it-Yourself ideas to make those rooms more comfortable.
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Check your windows for leaks: Use a lit incense stick around the perimeter of the window to see if there is a leak. If you find a leak, use an insulation film kit to cover the window. These can be found at any hardware store. Or, an even less expensive option is to simply stuff the area with a towel or t-shirt.
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Install a Cove Heater: This is an independant heating unit that mounts a few inches below your ceiling. It runs on its own thermostat, requires no special ventilation or ductwork. Because it mounts near the ceiling, furniture and other objects will not obstruct airflow.
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Install electric outlet gaskets: Cold air can easily reach inside your house through the electrical outlets. Foam gaskets are inexpensive and easy to install.
The best way to find the source of heat loss or energy inefficency in your home is through a Home Energy Audit which will assess how much energy your home uses and make suggestions to improve efficiency. A blower door test will also be done during an audit and this will show areas of air leakage. The information provided from the Home Energy Audit and blower door test will arm a homeowner with the information needed to make educated decisions about improvements in their home's envelope and/or HVAC system so that each and every room in the house will be comfortable.
Photo credits: Familyhandyman.com, Flickr
Posted on Wed, Jan 25, 2012 @ 09:45 AM
Radon Overview
Only smoking causes more lung cancer deaths than radon. It is a colorless, odorless, tasteless gas and may be in your home without you knowing. Radon is formed from the natural breakdown of uranium in soil and rock and moves up through the ground and into your home through cracks in the foundation. It can also enter your home through well water. It is present in Central New York and many other parts of the country and can vary greatly from one house to the next.
Testing for Radon
Homeowners can test for radon themselves using a kit purchased at a hardware or home improvement store. Follow the directions on the kit for proper placement of the device and where to send the device after the test to get your reading. The EPA also offers discounted radon test kits that can be purchased online. Radon is measured in "picocuries per liter of air," or "pC/L." While no amount of radon is safe, the EPA recommends measures be taken to reduce the radon level in your home if your test result is 4 pC/L or higher.
Reducing Radon Levels in Your Home
The EPA recommends you use a qualified radon mitigator to fix radon problems. There are several methods a contractor can use to lower radon levels in a home. Some techniques prevent radon from entering your home while others reduce radon levels after it has entered. Common methods of fixing a radon problem are to repair cracks in the home's foundation and / or to add ventilation. Additional information on radon reduction can be found here.
Take Action in January
The EPA has designated January as National Radon Action Month. Make it a point to test your home and, if your test shows an elevated level of radon, make a commitment to get it fixed.
Photo credit: ahis1.com
Posted on Thu, Jan 19, 2012 @ 12:05 PM
Indoor air, according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, is two to five times more polluted than the outdoor air. But the reason most people are not aware of this is because microscopic size dust particles are present in the home - not visible to naked eye. Typically, they are suspended in the air due to their small size and the electrostatic charge that they carry. 99% of dust in the home is made up of the tiniest particles, and these are able to even by-pass the body’s system like the nose, and the windpipe. Even the body is designed to filter out only particles greater than 3-5 microns in size and keep them away from the lungs.
Choosing the right furnace filter
Fiberglass air filters are disposable and the least expensive. You can find them in any hardware store. These filters will trap larger-size particles, but not small particles. This is not an effective filter for a home with family members who have allergy problems.
Pleated air filters use a much denser mesh material to trap particles. These will filter out 90% of mold spores and pet dander and they meet the American Lung Association Healthy House Indoor Air Quality Guidelines. Pleated filters only need to be changed every 90 days under normal conditions and it is a very cost-effective solution as these filters typically cost under $20.
Electrostatic filters have a static charge that attracts dust, dirt and other matter and will remove a very high percentage of contaminants from the air. You can wash and reuse these filters. They also have little effect on air flow which enables air conditioning or heating equipment to operate at maximum efficiency.
Air purification systems create an ionized electrical field that neutralizes airborne particles such as dust, pollen and allergens, and eliminates unpleasant odors. These are the best systems to improve indoor air quality and will fill your house quickly with clean, crisp air. Systems are available in room size and for the whole house.
If allergies and respiratory problems aren’t a concern for your family, a fiberglass, pleated or electrostatic air filter can be enough to keep your furnace clean. But it’s important to change or clean the filter every month – remember that dust and dirt are the cause of half the repair calls to service technicians! Care should be taken to maintain your furnace filters properly and change them when required.
If any family members have allergies or if odors, mold, dust or other allergens are a problem and you want cleaner, fresher air, then you should definitely consider an air purification system.
We spend a good part of the day in our homes, so it’s important to maintain healthy air inside our house.
Photo credits: Fiberglass filter (danforthfilters.com), Electrostatic filter (willardpowervac.com), Pleated filter (directindustry.com), Air Purification System (AtmosAir.com).

Posted on Wed, Jan 11, 2012 @ 09:00 AM
It doesn't always cost money to save money when it comes to reducing your energy usage. Here are some simple ideas from Consumerenergy.com to save a little each month....none of these will cost you anything to implement either!
Electronics
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Even when gaming systems, stereo equipment and other electronics are "off" but still plugged in, they are drawing power. Simply pulling the plug can put $150 per year back in your pocket.
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Save $75 or more per computer per year by using the 'standby' or 'hibernate' setting.
Clothes Washer
Thermostat
Home Heating
Heating your home is the largest user of energy and offers the greatest opportunity for savings. About 40 percent of your total home energy budget goes for heating. To reduce your heating costs:
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Clean or replace the furnace filter often during the heating season. Furnaces use less energy if they “breathe” more easily. Follow instructions in the furnace manufacturer’s manual.
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Keep furniture, carpeting and curtains from blocking heat registers and air return ducts.
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If radiators are located near cold outside walls, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the radiator and the wall to reflect heat back into the room.
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While sleeping, add an extra blanket for warmth.
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Close your attic, basement, garage and exterior doors to prevent cold drafts and keep in heat.
Refrigerator/Freezer
Your refrigerator/freezer uses more electricity than any other appliance in your kitchen.
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Avoid opening the refrigerator or freezer door to browse. Each time you do, cold air escapes and your energy costs increase.
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Let hot foods cool before putting them in your refrigerator or freezer. Hot foods cause the motor to work longer and harder.
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Because frozen food stays cold longer than air, it’s good to keep your freezer full, but not packed. You’ll save energy by placing water-filled containers in empty spaces.
Each of these ideas will save you money. If you do several, or all of them, the savings will be substantial. Give it a try...who doesn't want a little more money in their wallet?
Photo Credit: istock
Posted on Wed, Jan 04, 2012 @ 09:00 AM
What is an Ice Dam?
An ice dam is a ridge of ice that forms at the edge of a roof and prevents melting snow (water) from draining off the roof. The water that backs up behind the dam can leak into your home causing damage to walls, ceilings and insulation.
What are the causes of icicles and ice dams?
Icicles and ice dams form in the gutters and along roof edges when snow melts on your roof and meets the cold air of the roof edges. The melting snow is actually being caused by energy leaking from your home. As warm air from the inside of your home rises into the attic, it warms the roof, causing snow to melt and often, creating an ice dam. The ice dam enables the trapped water to get under the roof shingles, causing water to leak inside.
What if you have an ice dam now?
Hire an expert to solve the immediate issue. Don't climb on your roof, and avoid standing on the ground and 'chipping away' at the ice. Not only could you damage the roof, but you can be seriously injured by falling ice or debris.
Preventing Future Ice Dams:
NYSERDA recommends the following ice dam prevention tips:
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Seal air leaks. Seal air leaks in your attic to stop warm air leakage, the source of ice dam problems.
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Add insulation. After sealing leaks, add insulation in your attic.
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Check ventilation. Provide adequate ventilation so the underside of the roof and outside air are at the same temperature. Check to make sure attic insulation is not blocking roof ventilation.
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Clean gutters. Clean leaves and other debris from gutters before the first snow.
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Hire an accredited contractor. Hire a Home Performance contractor accredited through the Building Performance Institute (BPI) to conduct an in-home comprehensive energy assessment, also called an "energy audit." This audit will not only suggest specific improvements to prevent future ice dams, but will recommend ways to reduce energy use, save money and improve the health and safety of your home.
Posted on Wed, Dec 21, 2011 @ 10:00 AM
Don't forget the basics!!! You can reduce energy costs by doing some simple things....some of which you may have never even thought of!!
1. Set computers to sleep or hibernate.
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Enable the "sleep mode" feature on your computer, allowing it to use less power during periods of inactivity. In Windows, the power management settings are found on your control panel. Mac users, look for energy saving settings under system preferences in the apple menu.
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Configure your computer to "hibernate" automatically after 30 minutes of inactivity. The "hibernate mode" turns the computer off in a way that doesn't require you to reload everything when you switch it back on. Allowing your computer to hibernate saves energy and is more time-efficient than shutting down and restarting your computer from scratch. When you're done for the day, shut down.
2. Unplug your chargers.
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Every house is full of little plastic power supplies to charge cell phones, PDA's, digital cameras, cordless tools and other personal gadgets. Keep them unplugged until you need them.
3. Use power strips.
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Use power strips to switch off televisions, home theater equipment, and stereos when you're not using them. Even when you think these products are off, together, their "standby" consumption can be equivalent to that of a 100 watt light bulb running continuously.
4. Use appliances efficiently.
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Set your refrigerator temperature at 38 to 42 degrees Fahrenheit; your freezer should be set between 0 and 5 degrees Fahrenheit. Use the power-save switch if your fridge has one, and make sure the door seals tightly. You can check this by making sure that a dollar bill closed in between the door gaskets is difficult to pull out. If it slides easily between the gaskets, replace them.
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Don't preheat or "peek" inside the oven more than necessary. Check the seal on the oven door, and use a microwave oven for cooking or reheating small items.
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Wash only full loads in your dishwasher, using short cycles for all but the dirtiest dishes. This saves water and the energy used to pump and heat it. Air-drying, if you have the time, can also reduce energy use.
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In your clothes washer, set the appropriate water level for the size of the load; wash in cold water when practical, and always rinse in cold.
5. If you have a forced-air furnace, do NOT close heat registers in unused rooms.
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Your furnace is designed to heat a specific square footage of space and can't sense if a register is closed - it will continue working at the same pace. In addition, the cold air from unheated rooms can escape into the rest of the house, reducing the effectiveness of all your insulating and weatherizing.
6. If you'll be going on vacation.
7. Plant a tree.
8. Install more attic insulation.
9. Fix leaky faucets.
10. Add foam gaskets behind all outlet covers and switch plates.
Photo credit: Howdowesaveenergy.com
Posted on Wed, Dec 14, 2011 @ 10:00 AM
Do you heat or cool your house only to find that it doesn't last very long? Does your heating or cooling system cycle off and on too frequently? The most common reason for these problems is that your house is leaking air.
Air leaks and drafts that let heat escape in the winter and trickle in during the summer often aren't easily detected because they are usually the result of problems behind walls or in other hard-to-reach places.
Common Areas of Household Air Leaks
Locating Air Leaks
One way you can check for air leaks on your own is to purchase a thermal detector which is made specifically for finding air leaks in your house. The most effective way to check the tightness of your home is to get a professional home energy evaluation. This should include a blower-door (depressurization) test and also thermal imaging which will reveal hard-to-detect areas of air infiltration and missing insulation. The U.S. Department of Energy also offers helpful advice on detecting air leaks.
Fixing Air Leaks and Drafty Areas
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Basement. Caulk is best for sealing gaps or cracks that are 1/4 inch or less. Use spray foam to fill gaps from 1/4 inch to 3 inches. Also, seal penetrations that go through the basement ceiling to the floor above (usually this will be holes for wires, water supply pipes and venting)
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Attic. No matter what kind of insulation you currently have in your attic, one quick way to determine if you need more is to look across the span of your attic. If your insulation is just level with or below your floor joists, you should add more. The recommended level for most attics is to insulate to R-38 or about 10 to 14 inches.
A great resource with additional information on insulating and fixing air leaks is provided in a publication from Energy Star.